Featured Destination

Patagonia, Slowly

Ten days on foot through Torres del Paine, with no itinerary past sundown and no signal past the ranger station.

Where to go slow

Five places worth the layover, the language barrier, and the terrible Wi-Fi.

Sunlit mountain ridgeline above a green alpine valley, forested slopes climbing toward bare rock peaks
Italy

The Dolomites

Via ferrata trails, rifugio dinners, and light that turns the rock pink for twenty minutes each evening.

Destination guide
Whitewashed cliffside buildings with blue-domed roofs overlooking the sea at golden hour
Greece

Santorini

Past the cliffside cafés, the quiet side of the island still exists — you just have to walk further.

Destination guide
A narrow tiled European street lined with old buildings and café tables
Portugal

Alfama, Lisbon

The oldest district in the city, and the one that never quite modernized. Trams, tile, and fado through open windows.

Destination guide
Zebras grazing on open savanna grassland stretching to a distant horizon
Kenya

Maasai Mara

The plains stretch further than the eye adjusts to. Go in the shoulder season and you'll have most of it to yourself.

Destination guide
A turquoise glacial lake surrounded by pine forest and snow-dusted mountains
Canada

Banff, Alberta

Turquoise lakes, cold mornings, and trailheads five minutes from your front door.

Destination guide

Field notes

Shorter dispatches — what actually happened between the guides.

Patagonia, Slowly: Ten Days Without a Plan

What happens when the itinerary ends at "get to the trailhead."

Jul 12 · 9 min read
Getting Lost in Alfama, On Purpose

The best directions in Lisbon are the ones you ignore.

Jun 28 · 6 min read
The Case for the Slow Train

Why we stopped flying between cities under 400 miles.

Jun 14 · 7 min read
Eating Alone, Well

A short guide to the solo dinner, city by city.

May 30 · 5 min read
What Three Weeks in the Mara Taught Me About Waiting

Most of it is just sitting still.

May 09 · 8 min read

Notebook: roads we keep returning to

Four places, four rolls of film, no captions longer than the ones below.

Granite towers of Torres del Paine rising over a wind-ruffled lake
Torres del Paine · Chile
A straight forest road with sunlight breaking through tall pines on either side
Ruta 40 · Argentina
Sunlit mountain ridgeline above a green alpine valley, forested slopes climbing toward bare rock peaks
Dolomiti · Italy
A turquoise glacial lake surrounded by pine forest and snow-dusted mountains
Banff · Canada

The Sunday Dispatch

One good place, one field note, one photo — every Sunday, nothing else.

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Twelve years of dispatches

Every destination guide, field note, and photo essay we've published, filed by region.

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